Submitted by Ashley M, Winnipeg

Ashley may be reached to talk about Cambodia at ashley_morden@hotmail.com

Cambodia , a country of great suffer beautifully disgused by lush vegetation, historically rich Angkor Wat and an abundance of bright, warm and welcoming smiles. A country that for four years, from 1975-1979, was barbarically torn to pieces under the dictation of Prime Minister Saloth Sar, more commonly known as ' Pol Pot .'

Re-named as the Democratic Kampuchea, under his rule, Pol Pot had plans for a new Cambodia . 

With great force, he estblished a vicious communist movement, the Khmer Rouge , which would round up bourgeois and other intellectuals to be murdered. 

Mimicing the French Revolution, Pol Pot 's aim was to create "Year Zero", a new beginning for his country. 

A beginning where no one was more powerful than he.  A beginning where men, women and children were forced to work in labour camps, malnurited and tormented.  Exploited and killed.  A beginning that would never actually commence, the process only resulting in the loss of one third of a country's population.  An estimated 750,000 to 1.7 million people were killed during this genocide due to starvation, hard labour or numerous other methods of torture. This does not include those whom were left displaced, without family, without hope.  It is said that the war and hate crimes commited by the Khmer Rouge  towards the Cambodians during this time were more harsh and severe than those inflicted on the Jews and other minority during the Hollocaust.  I have only heard this comment through passing, but while travelling South East Asia this past fall, I decided to explore the bittersweet and broken world of Cambodia . 

I must admit that before entering the country I was nervous. I had read many horror stories of the drug trade, underground sex industry and untold crime stories of Phnom Penh , the country's capital.  Immediately upon arrival though, I knew that I had just entered a country of all-embracing love and acceptance. Within seconds, all worries and fears that I had previously had vanished.

I entered Cambodia by bus from Vietnam and after a brief stop in Phnom Penh , took a bus to Siem Reap.  The ride was scenic and serene as we passed villagers working in the fields and families gathering together.  The people were notably impovrished but their happiness portrayed the situation as an organically beautiful, innocent and simplistic way of life.  In my heart I felt at home.


I spent my time volunteering at the Cambodian Landmine Relief Fund Museum in Siem Reap (an NGO, non-profit organization run by both the Canadian and Cambodian government), the NACA Orphanage in Phnom Penh and simply exploring the country, touching the people and feeling the culture.

During my visit in Cambodia I came across and acquainted myself with many landmine victims. The sidewalks of Phnom Pehn and Siem Reap are conjested with individuals missing one or mulitple limbs and burn victims begging to survive. Sitting with their cups in front, hands at chest motioning the peaceful, Buddhist bow for mercy, I could not help but feel pain for them that I cannot begin to describe. An estimated ten million landmines have been layed across Cambodia . Many de-mining organizations have removed a large number of mines but it strongly is believed that there are still millions of mines and un-exploded ordnance spread over the countryside of Cambodia .

Cambodians are beautiful people both inside and out. Their intentions are good and their love is contageous. I witnessed a level of extreme optimism, strength and courage that I had never seen before. It changed my life. One particular little girl at the Landmine Relief Fund Museum stole my heart.  She could not speak english but we were able to communicate through our eyes, smiles, hugs and cheek kisses.  I wish that I could speak Khmer so that I could perhaps hear some of their stories, wishes, hopes and dreams. Although their posessions are minimal and days full of struggle, their lives are joyful.  They are children, naturally innocent and delightful as children should be.

There are two ways to travel Cambodia . The first is to keep an open mind and open eyes.

I thought it was near impossible for one to turn their head on the endless problems that this country is undergoing. I was wrong, as the second way to travel this country is a five star luxery deal.

There are many five star hotels, designer shops and fancy restaurants in Siem Reap for the 'comfortable' traveller to enjoy. The unfortunate fact though is across the street from these expensive stores are the people of the country struggling to survive.

Each time that I told someone of South East Asia that I was from Canada , they responded with "ahh Canada , good country!" I smiled and agreed but deep down did not feel satisified at all with our country. There are still countless Canadian visitors to countries, such as Cambodia , that travel cheap benefiting from the crashed economy but never giving back. It is a form of exploitation at it's finest and quite honestly, it's pathetic.

I visited S-21, the jail that Pol Pot used as a torture chamber before sending his prisioners to the Killing Fields to be executed. I have never felt so empty as I did there. I walked through the cells, blurred eyes by tears feeling as though I could throw up. Horrible. The blood from torturing people was still all over the ground and the walls in S-21. The bones, teeth and clothing were still tossed about the mass graves at the Killing Fields. The tree in which the Khmer Rouge beat babies and children was still standing tall. Heartbreaking.

I went to Cambodia and I found peace. I found home. The country has stole a part of my soul and a massive chunk of my heart. I plan on returning very soon. The people are beautiful. They have been through so much, the country is still in shambles, but they are happy. They are peaceful. They are warm, loving and welcoming. Nowhere in asia was able to compare to the bittersweet bliss that I felt in cambodia. 

The day that I visited S-21, I also read a quote on the back of a lighter used by a soldier in the vietnam war.
it read;

'With love, there is life. Without love, there is no life.'

True.
Cambodians have suffered and continue to suffer in ways that i cannot imagine. Their constant, true and unconditional family support and love though allowed their country to give more comfort and joy than the western world could ever provide for me.

I challenge every person that reads what I have wrote on Cambodia to travel with love. To visit countries that need our attention and assistance. To stay in the city with the locals as opposed to a resort. To experience a country authentically instead of commercially and to give back rather than purely benefit from one country's crashed economy. The memories that you will create will be much more meaningful and will possibly change your life.