 |
Mysterious Island-
Easter Island
(This article was published
Aug 20th on Easter Island although it doesn t relate to health)
RAPA NUI, Chile —Although
well-known for its statues, the South Pacific island of Rapa Nui
is well off the beaten path for most travellers, let alone most
Manitobans.
The only way to the island — known in English as Easter Island
and in Spanish as Isla de Pascua — is by a 5 1/2- hour plane
ride from either Tahiti or Chile. As a result of their extreme isolation,
the Rapa Nuians developed a unique form of Polynesian culture, involving
erecting the classical Moai statues as a form of ancestor worship.
This statue building became so developed that the islanders deforested
their entire island. All trees were cut and used to transport the
Moai and erect them on elaborate platforms. Stone hats weighing
over a tonne were finally placed on to the statues.
By the time of Europeans’ first contact with the island, intertribal
warfare over scarce resources had collapsed the Moai cult, leaving
most of the statues toppled.
The population which at one time was 10,000 became significantly
smaller. Disease and slavery cut back the population to an all-time
low of 110 people! Today, the island has 3,900 inhabitants, about
half of which are descendants of the first Polynesian settlers.
Through the work of successive archeologists and reconstruction,
some of the Moai have been restored. Recently the eyes for the statues
were discovered. Made of carved coral and red stone to anatomically
represent a cornea and iris, these were placed into each erected
statue last, “activating” their “manna”
or energy.
Norwegian ethnographer Thor Heyerdahl attempted in 1947 to prove
that Peruvian Incas had originally colonized Rapa Nui by duplicating
their journey. Using catamaran canoes made of reeds and only stars
for navigation, he completed this journey. Although his theories
were later proven wrong, Heyerdahl is still remembered by islanders
today for the attention he brought to the island.
I stayed in the Orongo hotel — still owned and run by a Rapa
Nui family that had assisted Thor in his island projects.
Visiting Rapa Nui, tourists can see some reconstruction as well
as the many fallen statues. The volcanic quarry, Rano Raraku, still
has carved statues lying in their foundations waiting to be extricated
and moved. When the Moai cult collapsed many statues were left en
route to their destination. You can see how they were carved in
stages, finished off then transported face down on sleds. Since
these sleds have long rotted away it gives the appearance of the
statues crawling towards the beach!
The island is very pleasant year-round with peak tourist season
from December to March.
The busiest time on the island is at the Tapati festival, which
will be held Feb. 1-17, 2008. Polynesian competitions range from
haka pei — which involves sliding down a volcano on a banana
trunk — to horse racing and native dancing. Other events include
carving, necklace making and produce exhibits. All competitions
generate points that go to candidates for the festival queen, who
is later crowned by moonlight. As one candidate for the next year’s
festival remarked, becoming a queen requires a lot of work and is
expensive.
The average traveler may spend only three days there but five is
recommended, as rainy days can upset timetables. Local accommodation
is available ranging from budget to luxury. Because it is out of
the way visitors need to plan their trip in advance.
Despite being small, the island is hilly and irregular, making movement
by foot, horse or vehicle slow. With more than 1,000 unique statues
there is much to see and even more to think about. Despite many
of their past problems, Rapa Nuians are some of the friendliest
people you will meet and are eager to share their island and culture
with visitors.
Booking a trip is cheaper if you arrange tickets far in advance.
Many local hotels will arrange lodging on arrival but it is best
to check in advance, especially in February.
|